Heavenly Hangzhou

February 13,2005

“HANGZHOU IS CHINA’S NUMBER ONE CITY,” mutters Tony, our tour guide, in broken English. He’s referring to the city’s ranking in a recently published Forbes survey on the most business-friendly Chinese city. As we emerged from the recently refurbished Hangzhou-Xiaoshan International Airport and out to the cold autumn driveway, we thought that Tony’s statement could refer to just about anything offered by this bustling city.

An old Chinese proverb goes, “In heaven, there is paradise, on earth Hangzhou.” This being our second time to set foot here, the changes after eleven years have been spectacular. Located in the Zhejiang province south of Beijing, Hangzhou, with its cool climate (winters aren’t as harsh compared to China’s capital) and numerous historical sites, is one of the favorite tourist destinations of local Chinese. Yet, despite being China’s version of Baguio or Tagaytay, Hangzhou is by no means a small, rustic town. The airport connects to the city center via a large eight-kilometer, four-lane expressway similar to Manila’s Skyway. The billiard table-smooth surface is surprising enough, but the shock and awe comes at the sight of eight-lane highways leading in and out of the city.

There are two major areas in Hangzhou, a tourist and financial/business district. The former is void of any tall buildings and billboards, preserving the feel of the Hangzhou visited in the 13th century by Marco Polo. He described the city as the ‘most splendid in the world’. Meanwhile, the latter is very modern and upscale, much like a mini-Singapore. Public transportation is convenient, thanks to a multi-million dollar modernization program. Taxis are the easiest way to get around, but be wary of the drivers as they tend to charge foreigners exorbitantly. Buses, either electric or diesel-powered, are the most reliable way to get around. However, since the bus stops are written in Chinese characters, it’s best to have a local tourist map guide you. A subway system is in the works for the city, and should be completed by the time the Olympic Games kick off in 2008.

Being booked at the city’s premiere hotel, Shangri-la Hotel Hangzhou, we got the same level of luxury and service expected of this renowned international hotel chain. What further distinguishes this one is its excellent location and façade. Situated in front of the famous West Lake (Xi Hu), Shangri-la Hotel Hangzhou looks decisively like a Chinese Buddhist temple with its vast gardens, spacious grounds, and ornamental detailing. The design is grand and marvelous, while still leaving a soothing and relaxing environment for even the most stressed business traveler. The same theme is echoed inside by the use of Chinese paintings and ceramics, making it look like a traditional courtyard. The staff speaks passable English, making it easy to inquire about where to get a cab, what’s the best place to go to, and how to exchange currency.

Stroll outside the hotel and you’ll see the magnificent West Lake. The area around the 3-kilometer long, 3-kilometer wide lake is dotted with benches, gardens, picnic grounds, and food stalls. The on-going renovation cements Hangzhou’s reputation as the “Honeymoon Capital of China”. The pedestrian-only causeways (Baidi and Sudi) split the lake into two, giving the phrase ‘a walk in the park’ a new meaning. There are small islets within Xi Hu, the biggest of which is Solitary Hill Island (Gu Shan). Connected via the Baidi causeway, Gu Shan is home to the Zhejiang Provincial Museum. This free attraction offers a glimpse of Chinese history as seen from the city’s perspective as the country’s former capital. It also houses the West Lake Art Gallery and Hangzhou’s most famous restaurant, Louwailou Caiguan.

All of Hangzhou’s temples and pagodas are faithful reconstructions of the originals dating back from the city’s founding in AD 610. The Taiping Rebellion of 1861 destroyed most of the monuments and cultural sites, and the few that survive were decimated by the Cultural Revolution in 1949. Nonetheless, the pagodas and temples still remain breathtaking. The most famous is the Temple of the Soul’s Retreat (Lingyin Si). Inscribed at its entrance are the words ‘cloud forest Buddhist temple’, and the description could not be more accurate. Lingyin Si houses no fewer than seven temples, each grander than its predecessor. The halls are heavily decorated with detailed wood sculptures, ending with a large 20-meter high Buddha statue carved from 24 pieces of camphor wood.

The oldest standing pagoda in Hangzhou is the Six Harmonies Pagoda (Liuhe Ta). Already along the city’s outskirts, the 60-meter high octagonal pagoda is accessible by taxi. It served as the city’s lighthouse when it was the center of commerce in the 1200s. Now it provides a sanctuary for those who want a relaxing atmosphere free from the hustle and bustle of the increasingly face-paced life in China. The grounds provide a charming walk with its numerous sculptures, bells, and shrines. Climbing up Liuhe Ta costs extra, but it’s worth it considering that the Qiantang River Tidal Bore, located 60 kilometers away, can be seen from its highest level.

Two other pagodas have been recently restored by the government as tourist attractions. Both offer breathtaking vistas of West Lake. The first is the Precious Stone Pagoda (Baochu Ta). Rebuilt in 1933 on the original’s remaining bricks, Baochu Ta measures just 45 meters tall. Its slender silhouette means that it’s almost impossible to see its spire when you stand near the base. Set atop the hilly terrain near Xi Hu, the surrounding grounds is a great place to catch the sunrise.

Completed in just 2002, Brick Pagoda of West Gate (Leifeng Ta) is the most modern of all Hangzhou attractions with accessibility for the disabled. Like Baochu Ta, Leifeng Ta was heavily reconstructed. Unlike the former, it had to be re-built from scratch as the original structure collapsed on its own weight after the locals stole the pagoda’s stone wall bricks, which were said to be miraculous. The local government rebuilt Leifeng Ta after they discovered extensive Buddhist artifacts dating back to AD 975 in a chamber underneath, including the remains of Buddhist founder, Sakyamuni. The large collection of artifacts as well as the original Leifeng Ta structure can be found inside.

A long, tiring day exploring the city is best capped off with a taste of local cuisine. Though not usually given the same high regard as Cantonese or Guangzhou cooking, Hangzhou still has its specialties including xihu cuyu (poached fish in sweet vinegar) and jiojuazi ji (Beggar’s Chicken). Above all though, we just had to try the famous Longjing (Dragon Well) green tea. Grown in the mountain areas surrounding the city, Longjing is light and crisp, just perfect for a nightcap. The tea’s strength depends on the altitude where the tea leaves are harvested, the best being those found on the mountain tops. Enjoying Hangzhou’s special brew is best done at the Dragon Well Tea Village (Longjing Wencha). However, since it’s far from the city center, we found the next best thing—a local tea house.

Unlike western coffee outlets, tea houses in Hangzhou differ in mood and ambiance when compared to each other. The one we visited, Peerless Tea House, is intimately set complete with small, private rooms perfect for groups of two to four. The buffet, filled with all sorts of dimsum, crackers, fruits, and even our very own ube ice cream, is free! All we paid for is the tea (one per person), which is also refillable.

Casually walking back to our hotel room, we couldn’t help but think how much this city has changed over the past decade. And yet, despite the economic boom, much of the city’s unique character and charm is well preserved. There’s a good reason why Hangzhou is always filled with droves of tour buses. Indeed, though life in Hangzhou isn’t as modern as it is elsewhere, the tranquility and peacefulness offered by this city is unique. Stealing a glance at Xi Hu is more than enough to tell us that we’ve visited the right place.

By Ulysses Ang | Photos By Ulysses Ang
Originally Published in Avantgarde Magazine

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