The ancient Chinese believed that turtles were a symbol of longevity and fortitude. This belief applies itself perfectly to the tough turtle-back designed Mercedes-Benz that begun production in mid-1953 and is still a favorite among Benz enthusiasts today—the Ponton.
Type 170 series. As post World War II Europe saw itself recovering, sales and production of Mercedes-Benz cars grew and demand for these cars spread all over the continent and spilled over North America. So Why Are They Called Pontons?
The word “ponton” is the German word for “pontoon”. In the automotive context, it refers to the rounded shape of the vehicle body. The term Pontonkarosserie (pontoon body) was also used in reference to other German automobile marques of the same period, such as Opel.
According to most automotive historians, the term Pontonkarosserie was made to distinguish them from the pre-WWII design conventionalities of the other cars back in 1953. The headlamps, for example—which previously had been mounted atop large free-standing fenders on earlier models like the Mercedes-Benz Type 170—were now integrated into the fenders, becoming part of the whole body. At the time, they were compared to the shape of a pontoon, hence, the moniker was born.
These new designs however, retained some resemblance to its gothic predecessors, albeit with a flat and slab-sided rectangular appearance. But the real innovation of the car lay in its stressed unit-construction shell. This type of shell design made it stronger and lighter than its predecessor, the pre-War Type 170S.
The Variants
The Ponton was produced and designed in several body and engine types. The first model produced came out in a basic four cylinder side-valve engine version, called the 180 sedan. It was followed by the 180a sedan (produced from June 1957 to July 1959) that had an overhead valve engine with an overhead camshaft; then by the 190 sedan (March 1956 to August 1959). Distinguishing the 190 sedan was a modified engine derived from the 190SL roadster (May 1955 to February 1963), but the former was fitted with only one Solex carburetor instead of the two twin barrel carburetors used by the 190SLs. The only outward difference between the 190 models were a chromium plated strip under the side windows. Diesel engines were optional for the 180 and 190 sedans, which made them very popular as taxis. In 1959, the 180b and 190b sedans came out with several modifications, including a redesigned sub-frame for the front suspension unit. The production of the “b” version of the 4-cylinder gasoline and diesel sedans lasted until October 1962.
Besides having a more muscular 6-cylinder engine and more legroom, the bigger siblings were more desirable and are getting harder to find these days. This includes the 220a (June 1954 to April 1956), which was replaced by the 219 (March 1956 to July 1959); then joined by the 220S (March 1956 to August 1959) and the 220SE model (October 1958 to August 1959). Both the 220S and 220SE were available as a coupé or cabriolet. On top of the pecking order were the three sports cars produced by Mercedes-Benz during that period. Heading the list is the venerable 6-cylinder, 2-seater 300SL “Gullwing” coupé (August 1954 to May 1957); followed by the 6- cylinder, 2-seater 300SL roadster-cabriolet (August 1957- February 1963); and then its junior brother the 4-cylinder, 2-seater 190SL roadster cabriolet (May 1955-February 1963). The chassis of the 190SL roadster had a unitary construction design similar to that of the sedans and coupés while the 300SL (both the “Gullwing” and roadster) had a unique light-weight tubular space frame design on which the body panels were supported.
Tips On Buying a Ponton
A friend once told me, “There’s more to buying the perfect classic than finding one with a shiny coat of paint.” It pays to be well-informed. Get some workshop manuals so you have a good reference to start with. The mechanicals are not very sophisticated, and with a little mental elbow grease, you can gain a good understanding of the basic principles of the engine operation and tuning.
The bookstore or the internet can be an invaluable source of information and guides on the important things you need to know, from original paint finishes to factory specifications for a good number of classic cars. Having a good practical working knowledge of your prospective Ponton will better prepare you to deal with any reasonable contingency that may arise.
It is also advisable to join an internet-based or local enthusiast group. The Mercedes-Benz Club of the Philippines can provide you with some excellent contacts on local parts sources, whether it is a new old stock part or salvage parts acquired through informal swap meets. Over the years, these cars have gained historical heritage status, so treat them with respect and also be willing to share your knowledge as you learn from others.
With a little “quid pro quo”, you should be able to establish contacts with people with the same interest, and find specialized parts vendors so that finding the correct replacement part is quick and easy when you really need it. After several trips to the shop (and ATM machine), you can take your freshly restored Ponton for a ride. Unless you are one of those truly fortunate ones to have a 220s cabriolet or an SL roadster, chances are mere mortals like us would be content with driving around in a 220s or a 180d sedan. Nevertheless, it does not diminish the reminiscing experience of the various aspects of life during the Ponton era, when nothing was rushed. Although technological amenities are not as lavish, these cars mirror that period in every sense.
So plan a road trip to the country side and roll down the windows as you enjoy the visceral sensations of traveling in a 50 year old motorcar. For it is the journey and not the destination that you will find most enjoyable.
So you’re serious about getting your own Ponton? Then beef up with the following tips from the experts.
Body work – In some cases, this can be more expensive than basic mechanical work. It would be best to look fora car that is as rust free as possible. If the car has already undergone some form of restoration, check for paint fillers and painted-over rust with a magnet. Make further inspections by getting it up on a lift and check for frame rust. The more rust you find the less it is worth, the more work you will have to do, and possibly you might not want to buy it. Check the welded joints and other places where water can accumulate.
Make sure the gaps along panel joints are properly aligned. There is no excuse for a poor repair or restoration job. Check the interior; a damp interior means water is leaking inside, making it very prone for corrosion.
Mechanicals – Check engine for compression, smoke and overall condition. Assuming the car is drivable, take it for a ride. Check for clutch operation, shifting, ride, and handling.
Apply Some Simple Mechanical Checks – These are just a few generic tests, and some of it you can do it yourself.
1. Make a compression test. Loose compression indicates faulty ring and valve seal.
2. Check the oil pressure tested with a separate gauge.
Low pressure indicates engine and oil pump wear.
3. Test drive the car and see if the transmission shifts smoothly with no grinding or knocks. Listen and feel for bad synchros and chipped teeth.
4. If the oil is clouding, look for grey slime on the dipstick. This indicates a head gasket leak.
How much you should pay? – It really depends on the condition. Some magazines like Practical Classics offer the current market values of these classics in UK Pounds or US Dollars. These guides only serve as references and therefore, the values given are only to be used as a suggestion of how much to pay, given varying conditions.
By Alvin Uy | Photos Courtesy of Mercedes-Benz
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