Valley High

By Bernard L Supetran Philippine Daily Inquirer October 13,2019
Valley High

Dupax del Norte’s famed “sea of clouds”. Photo by Bernard L. Supetran

A road trip to the Cagayan Valley is arguably among the most scenic and challenging drives in the archipelago. Even with the Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEx) and the Tarlac-Pangasinan-La Union Expressway (TPLEx), which bypassed congested portions of the Maharlika Highway, the ascent to Dalton (now Balete) Pass zigzag road, is something motorists and passengers look forward to with its panorama and surprises at every twist and turn.

Now known as Balete Pass, crossing the meandering road is a literal rite of passage as it takes you from Nueva Ecija to Nueva Vizcaya, and from Central Luzon to the Cagayan Valley Region.

But with the continuing widening of roads into four lanes and comfortable stopover places straight up north, the journey has become as pleasurable and enticing as the destinations themselves.

The Department of Tourism has recently adopted the acronym FUN (Fun Up North) as its tourist branding for the region. And this fun includes, hopefully, the road trip for a Valley high experience.

Valley High

Organic Rambutan picking at the Department of Agriculture Experiment Station. Photo by Bernard L. Supetran

Pit Stop 1: Sta Fe. Perched at altitude of 914 meters above sea level, this mountain town is the gateway to Nueva Vizcaya and the rest of the region. This is a common stopover because of its picturesque and mountainscape, a snap shot, a tot break, shopping for native crafts or fruits, or a snack break. Time-permitting, you can glide over the cliff through a breath-taking zipline ride operated by the Sta. Fe municipal government.

Pit Stop 2: Bayombong. Just like a typical provincial capital, this town is host to various government offices and tourist establishments, most notably quaint home-grown hotels and restaurants which have interesting food and stories to share.

Valley High

People’s Museum & Library. Photo by Bernard L. Supetran

The town is also the center of culture with its heritage landmarks—St. Dominic Cathedral, the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese, the postcard-pretty Provincial Capitol Complex, and the People’s Museum and Library, is accredited by the DOT Region 2, and recognized by the National Museum as an Important Cultural Property.

Pit Stop 3: Dupax del Norte. This interior town recently hogged the limelight with its mesmerizing “sea of clouds” in the upland barangay of Binuangan. The cloud formation often appears early morning, particularly at this time of the year. With well-paved roads, the viewing area is accessible by any vehicle, and has been a favorite dawn hangout place of motorcycle riders for coffee and food peddled by micro entrepreneurs.

While sighting of the sea of clouds cannot be assured on a daily basis, the exciting drive and the sight of the undulating hills is more than enough to compensate.

Pit Stop 4: Dupax del Sur. On the way down, swing by this bucolic town for an Instagram-worthy photo of the 18th-century Baroque-themed St. Vincent Ferrer Church, declared by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure.

Adjacent to it is the municipal hall which has a tableau depicting the origins of the town as a dopaj or a resting place for indigenous tribes after hunting.

Valley High

Buko Filipino fusion dishes at G & B Restaurant in Bagabag. Photo by Bernard L. Supetran

Pit Stop 5: Bagabag. Further up north is a town which is known for its rows of shops selling buko pie and its variants—mango, ube, and pineapple. G & B Restaurant, which pioneered the production of the delicacy, also takes pride in fusion dishes of signature Filipino all-time favorites which use the coconut as an alternate or additional ingredient.

This roadside spot is a stopover for the mandatory pasalubong family members and officemates will surely badger you for.

Bagabag is also an emerging hub for farm tourism featuring back-to-basics experience for tourists and locals alike. These farm-themed resorts include Palaisdaan Hotel, Reginaldo’s Farm and Recreation Park, and JGC Farm and Resort.

Meanwhile, the Department of Agriculture Experiment Station offers a more authentic farm life where you can pick organically-grown fruits and vegetables, tend the livestock animals, and get to taste some farm-to-table dishes.

Valley High

Cagayan Valley road. Photo by Bernard L. Supetran

A vital crossroad in the Cagayan Valley and the Cordillera regions, the town is the entry point to Ifugao province, known for the world-famous Rice Terraces in Kiangan, Hingyon, Banaue, and Mayoyao.

From here, the next pit stops are infinite—the Lower Magat Eco-Tourism Park in Diadi, the urban vibe of Santiago and Cauayan cities, the frontier allure of Quirino, the tempting beaches and surf spots of Aurora, or the food, faith and farm attractions of Isabela and Cagayan.

Whichever you choose, exploring and driving around the Valley will surely give you a different high.

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