Motoring in Marinduque

There seems to be a misconception that this province, touted as the “heart” of the archipelago because of its central location, is a remote island far, far away. Truth be told, Marinduque is relatively accessible even before airlines started flying in—a 3-hour bus ride to Lucena City port, and a 3-hour roll-on, roll-off (Ro-Ro) ferry ride to Balanacan, the gateway port and transport center where all towns can be reached. For a seamless ride, Jac Liner has daily early evening trips from its Cubao terminal.

And because of its perceived isolation, our only image of Marinduque is the Moriones Festival every Holy Week with the iconic wooden masks and regalia of the Roman soldiers who crucified Jesus Christ. Now that province is marking its centennial founding anniversary this week, it is inviting all and sundry to hit the road, do some day-tripping and unmask the magic of this island.

With only 127 km of good circumferential road which cuts through six municipalities of 956 sq.km. land area, it is a compact paradise you can go around again-and-again. In fact, some automobile and big bike groups have motored around the province in recent years, and on Feb. 22-24, the Jeep Club PH will hold its National Jamboree to unravel its charming countryside with their offroad vehicles.

Pit Stop 1: Mogpog. Marinduque’s sea gateway with Balanacan Port which is punctuated by the gigantic statue of provincial patroness Ina ng Biglang-Awa at a secluded cove which used to be a Spanish naval repair facility. The town is also home to the Luzon Datum of 1911, a rock marker which serves as the archipelago’s geodetic center as mapped by American engineers. The landmark is at a hill 275 meters above sea level which provides a commanding view of Tayabas Bay and neighboring towns.

Mogpog also takes pride in being the cradle of the centuries-old province-wide Moriones tradition which locals revere as an act of penitence, thanksgiving and sacrifice, and not a mere tourist spectacle.

Pit Stop 2: Boac. This provincial capital town is the hub of commerce, education, and government, and takes you to a time warp with the American-period all-wood ancestral homes, most of which were converted into tourist-oriented establishments.

Towering at an elevated portion is the Immaculate Conception or Boac Cathedral which was proclaimed in December 2018 as an Important Cultural Property (ICP) by the National Museum, because of its religious and historic value being a watchtower and fortress during the Spanish era. Within the church compound is the Shrine of the Our Lady of Prompt Succor.

For a glimpse of the province’s checkered past, swing by the National Museum housed in an old Spanish building which served various functions.

The población is the site of the cenaculo or passion play on Christ’s crucifixion, which climaxes on Easter Sunday where main character Longinus the Roman Centurion is beheaded upon orders of Pontius Pilate to stop him from telling about Christ’s resurrection.

As the service hub, Boac is the logical place to stay because with its lodging facilities, urban necessities, transportation, and the all-important pasalubong shopping.

Pit Stop 3: Gasan. About 30 minutes south of the capital is this beach town noted for its powdery beaches, most notably Tres Reyes Islands which literally means “Three Kings.” Named Gaspar, Melchor, and Baltazar, each islet has a distinct character, with some of its portion ideal for scuba diving.

The municipality also hosts the Marinduque Airport where CebGo flies four times a week to and from Manila.

In Gasan’s outskirts is Talao Cave which has an exciting maze of caverns and multi-level chambers ideal for beginner cavers.

Pit Stop 4: Buenavista. Outdoors lovers can scale Mt. Malindig, the province’s highest peak and dormant volcano which is habitat to endemic flora and fauna. With an altitude of 1,157 MASL (meters above sea level), is rated as easy to moderate by mountaineers.

Alternatively, you can just laze and dip at the Marinduque Hot Springs Resort which has five pools or the Malbog Sulfur Springs which is believed to have therapeutic properties.

Pit Stop 5: Torrijos. This obscure municipality made a mark in history when Filipino troops routed US soldiers and captured their commander in the Battle of Pulang Lupa during the Filipino-American War in 1900. This victory is immortalized at a historical park at a ridge which has a panoramic view of the eastern seaboard.

Beach lovers can bask in the shores of Poctoy village, which has a mile-long stretch of fine white to sugar brown sand. Trekkers can also do a quick ascent in Sibuyao Highlands, a prospective farm tourism site which has a mesmerizing view of a “sea of clouds” in the early morning and late afternoon. If time permits, take it all the way to the Marinduque Wildlife Sanctuary which is habitat to diverse flora, fauna, and endangered species.

Pit Stop 6: Sta. Cruz. This northeastern town is a tourist area because of white island beaches of Polo, Mompong and Maniwaya, which has a handful of resorts for overnight stays and base for island-hopping. A few hundred meters offshore is Palad sandbar, which is made up of crushed coral sands appearing only on low tides.

For spelunking 101, Bagumbungan Cave is highly-recommended with its Class II 2-km underground river, which has a profusion of fruit bats, reptiles, flowstones, rim dams, speleothems and a cascading waterfall.

At the town proper, say a prayer for God’s traveling mercies at the circa-1760 Holy Cross Parish Church, whose well-preserved altar retablo, pulpit and original ceilings are considered heritage gems.

Going by this route, you have circumnavigated Marinduque’s main road network and can head back to Balanacan Port for Lucena, and back to Manila.